Red Dragon Chinese Cabbage

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Red Dragon Chinese Cabbage

Brassica rapa
(60 days) F-1 hybrid. When Nikos spied this striking purple-red 10" Chinese cabbage one autumn in the farm-to-table garden of a NY restaurant, she was smitten. Vibrant color and robust flavor make it all-around fabulous in salads, stir-fries and ferments (purple kimchi!) A bit tricky to grow: heads are prone to internal tipburn. Growing instructions included with each packet. Also know as KN-RCC3. 3–4% green off-types.


3230 Red Dragon
Item Discounted
From
Quantity
A: 40 seeds for $3.50   
B: 80 seeds for $5.00   
C: 200 seeds for $7.75   
D: 400 seeds for $12.50   

Additional Information

Chinese Cabbage

About 6,000-9,000 seeds/oz.

Growing Red Dragon

Red Dragon, while grown in a similar fashion to the more familiar green Chinese cabbage, is a bit more exacting in its needs in order to get an optimal crop: transplanting needs to be done within specific temperature ranges and it is recommended that internal tip-burn be managed with foliar calcium applications.

Temperature: Transplant only after last frost; exposure to frost or more than a week of temperatures below 50° may result in premature bolting. Additionally, if Red Dragon’s head formation occurs with temperatures repeatedly over 80°, head formation can be stunted or prevented.

Calcium application: Although successful crops can be grown without foliar calcium, it is recommended as a tool to minimize internal tip-burn, which is a decay of the inner leaves. Susceptibility to tip-burn is more pronounced during dry weather. If a spray is used, it should be applied before the heads form in order for the spray to reach the inner leaves. Where this variety was developed, applications are typically applied at 25, 30 and 35 days post-transplant.

Brassicas

Days to maturity are from transplant date.

Culture: Start brassicas indoors March-May for setting out May-July, or direct-seed in May, or in June for fall crop. Minimum germination soil temperature 40°, optimal range 55–85°. Easier grown for the fall because many varieties perform poorly in hot summers. For better stands in dry conditions, sow in trenches and keep irrigated. Wire hoops and row cover should be used at early stages to keep out flea beetles and swede midge.

Note: because of a rule issued by Oregon, we cannot ship brassica packets larger than ½ oz. (14 grams) into the Willamette Valley, except those that have tested negative for Black Leg and Black Rot. Check descriptions for information.

Diseases:

  • BL: Blackleg
  • BR: Black Rot
  • BS: Bacterial Speck
  • DM: Downy Mildew
  • FW: Fusarium Wilt
  • FY: Fusarium Yellows
  • TB: Tipburn
  • WR: White Rust

Pest and Disease Remedies for all Brassicas

Major pests: Cabbage Looper, Diamondback Moth, Imported Cabbageworm
Cultural controls: control cabbage-family weeds near crop fields, till under crop debris of early-season brassicas after harvest.
Material controls: Spinosad, Bt.

Pest: Flea Beetle
Cultural controls: floating row covers, mulch with straw, time plantings for fall harvested crops only, crop rotation, perimeter trap cropping.
Material controls: AzaMax, Spinosad, PyGanic.

Pest: Cabbage Root Maggot
Cultural controls: time planting to avoid first hatching, use row covers, control weeds.

Major diseases: Black Rot, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Blackleg, Club Root, Downy Mildew, White Mold
Cultural controls: avoid transplanting plants with yellow leaves or v-shaped lesions, crop rotation, destroy crop debris after harvest, avoid overhead irrigation, control weeds, allow for good air movement.
Material controls: Copper.

Disease: Head Rot
Cultural controls: use well-domed varieties, harvest heads when tight, cut stalks at an angle.
Material control: Copper.

Swede Midge—not as cute as it sounds!

Alert! Heading brassicas in the Northeast are seeing consistent damage from swede midge, a tiny gall midge. Its effects result in a non-heading plant. Wire hoops and row cover at early stages of heading brassica crops are becoming crucial for success. Some research also suggests garlic sprays as a possible organic repellent. Consult your Cooperative Extension resources for further information.

Asian Greens

  • Days to maturity are from emergence after sowing; from transplant, subtract 20 days.

Culture: Wire hoops and row cover keep out flea beetles and are a must for pristine salad or braising mixes!

Diseases:

  • ALTS: Alternaria Leaf Spot
  • BL: Black Leg
  • Black Rot
  • BSR: Bacterial Soft Rot
  • DM: Downy Mildew

Major pests: Cabbage Looper, Diamondback Moth, Imported Cabbageworm
Cultural controls: control cabbage-family weeds near crop fields, till under crop debris of early-season brassicas after harvest.
Material controls: Spinosad, Bt.

Pest: Flea Beetle
Cultural controls: floating row covers, mulch with straw, time plantings for fall harvested crops only, crop rotation, perimeter trap cropping.
Material controls: Spinosad, Pyganic.

Pest: Cabbage Root Maggot
Cultural controls: time planting to avoid first hatching, use row covers, control weeds.

Major diseases: Black Rot, Alternaria Leaf Spot, Blackleg, Club Root, Downy Milldew, White Mold
Cultural controls: avoid transplanting plants with yellow leaves or v-shaped lesions, crop rotation, destroy crop debris after harvest, avoid overhead irrigation, control weeds, allow for good air movement.
Material controls: Copper.

Note: because of a rule issued by Oregon, we cannot ship brassica packets larger than ½ oz. (14 grams) into the Willamette Valley, except those that have tested negative for Black Leg and Black Rot. Check descriptions for information.

Germination Testing

For the latest results of our germination tests, please see the germination page.

Our Seeds are Non-GMO

Non GMO

All of our seeds are non-GMO, and free of neonicotinoids and fungicides. Fedco is one of the original companies to sign the Safe Seed Pledge.