Kiwiberries
Kiwiberries Actinidia spp.
Productive twining vines climb 20' or more and produce delicious kumquat-sized kiwi fruits in late summer, so delicious that you might not be able to stop eating them! Unlike supermarket kiwis, the skin is smooth and edible. The longer they ripen on the vine, the sweeter they become. Once vines are established, adequate pruning (see directions below) will significantly increase yields. No significant pest or disease problems.
Although the vines are quite hardy, the flowers and foliage are frost sensitive. Planting on a northern exposure will delay budding in spring and reduce risk of frost damage. Protection from winter winds and intense winter sun is also recommended. Mulch with hay or wood chips. In poor soil fertilize annually with compost (such as either Rainbow Valley compost or Coast of Maine Quoddy Blend compost).
We offer two species:
Actinidia arguta ripens around mid-September, has large fruit and is more vigorous than kolomikta. (Argutas can just about pull down a tree.)
Actinidia kolomikta ripens around mid-August, has small fruit and is less vigorous but more cold-hardy than arguta and should thrive even in the northernmost districts.
Both species are native to eastern Asia.
Growing Kiwiberries
- Soil: Prefers rich well-drained soils.
- Pollination: Both male and female plants required for fruit. One male will pollinate several females as long as they are within approximately 30' of the male.
- Planting: Plant vines 15' apart each way in moist but well-drained soil.
- Training and Pruning:
- On a trellis: Train a single trunk to the trellis wires and then train two permanent 7–10' cordons (arms) off the trunk. Each winter remove at least 70% of old growth, leaving a dozen or so one-year-old laterals. The coming summer’s fruit will develop on fruit spurs growing off these one-year-old laterals.
Summer pruning may be required to keep extremely rampant vines from choking out your farm.
- On an arbor or gazebo: Once established, prune 70% of the old growth each year and leave some new canes for this year’s fruiting. The Pruning Book by Lee Reich is an excellent reference for pruning kiwis.
- On a trellis: Train a single trunk to the trellis wires and then train two permanent 7–10' cordons (arms) off the trunk. Each winter remove at least 70% of old growth, leaving a dozen or so one-year-old laterals. The coming summer’s fruit will develop on fruit spurs growing off these one-year-old laterals.